FIVE QUESTIONS WITH THE CREATORS OF DIPTQUE’S NEW FRAGRANCE OUD PALAO EAU DE PARFUM
By The Beauty Hub | September 17th, 2015 | Editors Pick,Interviews,News
Oud has made its entry into Diptyque’s fragrance catalogue with the launch of Oud Palao and to celebrate the exclusive launch in Dubai, we met up with the nose behind the fragrance Fabrice Pellegrin and Marketing & Product Creator for diptyque Myriam Badault.
Tell us more about the new fragrance Oud Palao and how long it took to bring this creation to fruition?
The key to Oud Palao lies in its diversity. The blend of its components into an inseparable cohesion. And its balance. For every apparently “oriental” note, there is another, less clearly recognisable, that harmonises with it, tempers it or subverts it.
It took us two years to complete this fragrance which is a unisex blend featuring notes of rose, oud, vanilla, cypriol, patchouli and sandalwood.
What is the story behind wanting to create a fragrance that depicted the Orient?
Fragrance is a way of life in the Middle East, and perfumes have played a strong role culturally. It was only a matter of time for us to create a fragrance that incorporated Oud.
Christiane, one of the co-founders of diptyque who is an architect by training, spent many years studying the Moroccan craft of zellige, the ceramic mosaics that decorate fountains, private and public spaces and the walls. She has designed many herself, combining traditional and contemporary motifs, including some that can be seen today at the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca.
In the contrast between its geometric order and the chaos of the world, zellige encourages meditation, soothes torment and offers universal harmony. This approach to Arab heritage by a European artist has thus given birth to Oud Palao.
Fabrice, tell us about the raw ingredients, where they are from and how they have been used in the composition of this fragrance?
The raw materials are all sourced from producers who demonstrate the strictest respect for the environment and their staff. The same applies to the oud, whose source tree, Aquilaria, is threatened with extinction due to wild logging: sourced from Laotian plantations where the trunks are harvested by hand, the oud we use comes from a supply chain that respects the environment and the producers.
Bulgarian rose softens the sharp edges, contributing something of the freshness of an English garden.
Indian cypriol and Somalian olibanum come together to push the composition towards muted depth and resonance.
Madagascan vanilla adds its spicy personality, similar to certain rums with an overtone of tobacco. It fuses with Sri Lankan sandalwood which helps diffuse the whole blend.
Spanish cistus ladanifer and Indonesian patchouli, one amber and lightly floral, the other with sustained camphor notes, provide the opulence and density that make Oud Palao the great perfume it is proving itself to be.
Fabrice, this is not your first time creating a fragrance using an oud accord. What would you say you have learnt from past compositions using this ingredient that you have been able to translate into Oud Palao?
The learning process will never stop for me, and I still have a lot to learn going forward.
When you start to compose a fragrance, my essential element is the indispensable ingredients of rose, oud, saffron and sandalwood. The essential elements should be appealing for the people. Smell is a secondary element. How to seduce and attract people is what we want from a perfume.
Diptyque have worked with you on more than one occasion. What is the attraction between you?
I love diptyque. Their approach to perfume is original and creative. We work directly with the founders and Myriam and they allow me the time to develop our creations with no constraints.
Myriam is very curious and is always looking and focusing on the small details and this makes a difference to me. Her focus excites me. She preserves her elegance but is still unique and these fine aspects of doing it the French way I love.
We have worked with Fabrice on numerous occasions and I appreciate his love and respect for our brand. He interprets our concepts and ideas correctly and we work in partnership to bring our ideas to fruition.
Oud Palao Eau de Parfum is available exclusively in the UAE from 15th September 2015 at diptyque stores and will launch worldwide in October 2015.
The Beauty Hub is an online news and information platform covering the beauty industry in the Middle East.